A Potted History of Art Deco, Retro and Vintage Jewellery

lery comes from an old Latin language and isRetro Jewellery (1940’s to 1950’s)
pronounced ‘jocale’ in Latin.From the 1940’s to the 1950’s the
‘Jocale’ meansjewellery style is known as retro. The jewellery worn
‘plaything’.became more colourful, bold and elaborate. Many call
'Vintage' jewellery includes many different periods ofthis era of jewellery the golden age of Hollywood
time. The styles of each period are defined by theglamour. There was nothing subtle or demure about
manufacturing technology available and the skill of thethe jewellery worn, as it was oversized, dramatic and
stone cutters of the era.asymmetrical. Commonly worn were large cocktail
Throughout the years jewellery has been worn for arings, bracelets, watches, necklaces and charm
multitude of reasons including; to display wealth, forbracelets.
functional reasons like pins or clasps, to demonstrateRubies were very popular, but also many
ones status or artistic display.semi-precious stones were used like aquamarine,
Art Deco Jewellery (1920’s to 1940’s)amethyst and moonstones.
Following the First World War economic and socialThe 1950’s
pressures brought a new mood for a rigorous andDuring the 1950’s economies embark upon an
clean-cut look. Art Deco was an innovative designextremely prosperous era. This is the time of the
style popular from the early 1920’s and“Dolce Vita”, punctuated by lavish
1940’s.parties and a wanting to display affluence.
In this era jewellery was influenced by African,The jewellery was made with white and yellow metal
Egyptian and Japanese themes, it followed geometricand accompanied by pearls and precious stones in
designs like circles, squares and rectangles, sharp linesabundance. Stylised naturalistic motifs, floral designs,
and bright colours.waterfall pendant earrings and tapered necklaces.
Paris was the source and the trendsetter of ArtThe 1970’s
Deco, which was later named after the 'ExpositionIn 1970’s jewellery was influenced by ethnic
des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Moderns'motives, east, and India inspired design. Ornamental,
held in Paris in 1925.folk-style adornments became popular. Colourful
There were many different materials used in the Artcabochon cut stones, silver and basic metals were
Deco period like gold, pearls, rubies, plastic, chromeused along with forgotten corals. Wristwatches also
and steel. Platinum was the new luxury metal used.became a big part of jewellery art.
The main designers during Art Deco era were CocoThe 1980’s
Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and René Lalique. TheIn the 1980’s earrings became a very
Cartier firm, founded in 1847, reached dizzyingfashionable item of jewellery for male teenagers. Jelly
heights of Art Deco splendour under the direction ofor thin metal bracelets/bangles worn in mass
Louis Cartier (1874 - 1945). Louis' fascination withquantities on the one wrist were also very popular.
Exotic motifs led to the creation of diamond, rubyJewellery also became a way of showing a
and platinum earrings from which hung jade rondelswomen’s status again. Many women would
carved with elephants, or exotic gold and enamelwear designer jewellery, diamonds and pearls to
bangles with interfacing carved-coral heads.show their wealth and power.