| The state of Oaxaca has been inhabited for well | | | | great lengths to make and market "artifacts". The |
| over 10,000 years, initially by hunter-gatherer groups | | | | temptation is hard to resist for the collector who |
| which, as their populations increased, developed | | | | would likely succeed in crossing into the U.S. with |
| sophisticated systems of political and social | | | | pieces, especially when the "story" of how the |
| organization, means by which to work the land and | | | | artifact was found makes sense, and based on the |
| use its by-products to make clothing, weapons, | | | | price being modest. |
| vessels for storage, manufacture and cooking, | | | | My advice is to stay clear of anything that may |
| adornments and accommodations. Cultures and | | | | appear to have a prohibition attached to its purchase |
| material items evidencing their development, | | | | or export. Remember that you are not in a society |
| continued to flourish, not without change as a | | | | where there's the presumption of innocence and the |
| consequence of war, trade, overuse of land and | | | | benefit of due process and procedural fairness. Stick |
| shifts in the natural environment. The Spanish | | | | to collectibles that you know you are able to export |
| conquest which began in the early 16th century | | | | from Mexico and take home with you, or keep here |
| created the most profound changes in Mexico in | | | | in Oaxaca without repercussions. You can still find |
| general, as well as in Oaxaca. But Oaxaca managed | | | | wonderful pieces easy for even the amateur |
| to maintain much of its indigenous cultural traditions, | | | | collector to determine authenticity, with good |
| evidenced by the fact that there are today no less | | | | vintage, patina, etc. Use your gut feeling, ask the |
| than 16 distinct ethnic groups, perhaps in part as a | | | | right questions and be even more vigilant than you |
| result of its isolation from the more northern states. | | | | would be in your home environment when trying to |
| The adaptation of a culture to its natural environment | | | | determine the veracity of what you're being told by |
| and external influences produces our artifacts and | | | | a shopkeeper regarding provenance, age and use. |
| antiques. Accordingly, against the foregoing backdrop, | | | | Pine dome-topped chests, often on a base, are easily |
| and given that there has been more than one foreign | | | | found, often in original paint and should cost about |
| influence (i.e. the Spanish, as well as the French and | | | | half or less as compared with their pricing in the U.S. |
| others), in this state with a diversity of habitats (i.e. | | | | or Canada. But watch for the front panels with |
| mountains, deserts, tropical forests, fertile lowland | | | | replacement paintings, mirrors and framing. They're |
| plains and tropical climates of the Caribbean and | | | | called "baüls" and were traditionally used as |
| Pacific, all of which exist in Oaxaca) one is able to | | | | hope chests, gifted upon marriage. Metal products |
| find a plethora of vestiges of the past. The city of | | | | such as galvanized milk pails, pitchers and tamale |
| Oaxaca and environs is rich in not only in | | | | steamers are nice pieces, light for taking on a plane, |
| pre-Columbian ruins as well as conquest and | | | | but be careful respecting age. You frequently come |
| post-conquest churches and other indicia of the | | | | across copper two handled cooking vessels in various |
| history and cultures of the region, but also what we | | | | sizes, which similarly can be reasonably purchased. In |
| commonly refer to as artifacts of pre-history (i.e. | | | | terms of crockery and stoneware, my favorites are |
| tools, projectile points, religious and aesthetic | | | | the Spanish-produced grey ollas used to import liquids |
| adornments) and antiques and collectibles from the | | | | such as oil into Mexico during the conquest period and |
| conquest era forward. I will use this distinction | | | | thereafter, and the metate or grinding stone used |
| between artifacts on the one hand, and antiques and | | | | with elongated "mano" to grind corn into meal for |
| collectibles on the other, for clarity. | | | | making tamales, tortillas, etc. In both cases it's quite |
| There are surprisingly only a handful of antique stores | | | | easy to determine age and authenticity. A while back |
| in the city. By contrast, in Puebla, 3 ½ hours up | | | | a downtown gallery had an exhibit comprised of 85 |
| the toll-road, there is a downtown area known as | | | | vintage metates with manos that blew me away. I've |
| Los Sapos where you can spend a day searching for | | | | since started my own collection. When it comes to |
| antiques in several stores within a couple of blocks of | | | | European furniture and North American glassware, |
| one another, and on Saturdays and Sundays in an | | | | they tend to be priced quite high. Respecting the |
| outdoor crafts and antique market. Whether in | | | | latter, as a collector of depression glass I can state |
| Oaxaca or Puebla, one must be cautious. I'm told that | | | | that good glassware is hard to find in Oaxaca, but |
| sale and exportation of artifacts is illegal. Therefore, | | | | does crop up from time to time. I was recently told |
| when you ask for artifacts in a shop, either you'll be | | | | that there was at least one glass factory in Puebla |
| turned away, or the dueño will tell you to wait, | | | | during the depression era producing pieces similar to |
| and he'll go into a back room and return with a couple | | | | those of the American manufacturers. More |
| of pieces. You won't find them on display. Similarly, if | | | | commonly encountered is the heavier glass such as |
| you venture off into the rural areas and make the | | | | the multi-liter bottles, frequently in green, used to |
| same inquiry of a campesino, you'll often be met with | | | | transport and store water, mezcal and other liquids. |
| a frightened or puzzled look, and comment that it's | | | | You will likely also come across siphon type seltzer |
| "prohibido." However, you may also be told in the | | | | bottles in blue, pink, green or clear that were |
| same breath that he has something at home, and to | | | | produced in Mexico. Similarly there is no shortage of |
| meet him later or come to his place to see what he | | | | other beverage industry collectibles such as tavern |
| has, the story being that he found it while working | | | | serving trays and other vintage advertising and other |
| the land. There are two caveats. Firstly, if you are in | | | | paraphernalia, used in production, marketing and |
| possession of an artifact, while you can register it | | | | consumption of alcoholic and other drinks. Of course |
| with the authorities and keep it at home (here in | | | | the most common of all collectibles are those with a |
| Oaxaca), upon your death your heirs are required to | | | | Catholic religious theme or content. The list goes on |
| deliver it up to the government. Secondly, beware of | | | | respecting similarities with the antiques and collectibles |
| reproductions. Near the ruins you may be approached | | | | to which we are accustomed, differences regarding |
| by individuals purporting to offer originals for sale. An | | | | form and function, as well as commonalities and |
| industry has been built around their production and | | | | distinctions in materials used in and means of |
| sale, and the quality is high. In Oaxaca, with its | | | | production. |
| significant level of poverty, there is incentive to go to | | | | |