Knowing Your Antique & Vintage Jewelry

To wear and enjoy a beautiful piece of antique andpiece has raised pads soldered to the back of the
vintage jewelry with a history behind can be aBrooch where the clasp is attached then it is a
wonderful, exhilarating experience. For many it is areplacement clasp.
lovingly addicting hobby. The more you collect, theAnother good clue to dating a piece and determining
more you want to collect! It's that exciting! But whenthe value of Antique and Vintage Jewelry is to look
buying these jewels of yesterday, how can one beat the metal content where there might be some
certain that what they are buying is truly authenticunderneath wear, usually in back where it would rub
and not relatively new and/or of it's claimed value?against the clothing. Genuine Gold and Silver, even if it
It's always advisable to buy from reputable dealershas wear, will not show a base metal underneath
who guarantee their items plus learning what to looksince it continues all the way through. Many costume
for in a piece. Attend Antique & Collectablepieces from the nineteenth century and into the Art
Shows, browse Antique Shops and read lots ofDeco period were made of gold and/or silver over
books to familiarize yourself with period styles andbase metals such as gold over brass, silver over
their findings.brass, silver over copper, gold over copper, etc.
When looking at a piece, examine it carefully bothThat's one way of knowing the piece is at least 60
front and back. An genuinely old piece will have all theyears old and more. During the war years of the
ingredients to confirm its authenticity. Many jewelry1940s there was a shortage of base metals where it
styles do tend to overlap so always check the entireaffected the jewelry industry so sterling silver was
piece for clues. Is the piece signed, hallmarked?substituted. If you see a marking such as "1/20 12K
Surprisingly enough a lot of antique jewelry wason Sterling" then 1/5 of the piece is 12K gold and is
marked in the most unusual of places so check alonglikely to be from 1942 to 1945. Vintage Bakelite which
the edges, inside of the bale, the pin stem and evenis a Polymeric Plastic invented by Leo Hendrik
on the back of the pin stem! You'll be amazed atBaekeland in 1907, became popular in jewelry design
what you could find and where you will find it.during the hardships of World War II also. There are
Suddenly a piece of jewelry that you thought wasseveral tests in determining Authentic Antique and
newer or made of silver plate or gold plate now mayVintage Bakelite Jewelry using Formula 409, Hot
be seen in a different light as genuine antique silverWater, Simichrome Polish and a Q-Tip. Still some
or gold and have a lot of value!Bakelite such as Black Bakelite may not test positive.
A lot of old jewelry such as Victorian Jewelry wasSince Bakelite is either cast or molded it would not
not marked. So now what? A Victorian brooch with ahave a seam line anywhere and the workmanship
long pin stem extending outward is a good indicationshould look hand carved and not be crudely executed
that it's early Victorian while a shorter one is of aas if a stamp was used. On Vintage Bakelite
later date. The "C" clasp is another indication that thebrooches, the clasp would be embedded into the
piece is old. Remember that there are alwayspiece.
exceptions to the rules since the "C" clasp was alsoFine Jewelry containing Diamonds or Precious Stones
used later on in Europe so take every detail intosuch as Rubies, Emeralds and Sapphires are either
account to come to your full conclusion. Look at thebezel-set, inset or set with prongs and will always
hinge and the clasp of a brooch, bracelet, necklace,have open-backs for maximum brightness. Air bubbles
etc.. Does it look like a clasp used today or does itseen in stones is a clue right off that the piece is
seem a bit different to you? Compare new pieces toglass. Marcasites which were substituted for
old pieces. Does the jewelry have a brass spring ringdiamonds as early as the 1700s, regained it's
clasp from the 1930s or a shiny gold plate clasp? Arepopularity in the 1920s and 1930s. A higher valued
the findings on a piece consistent with the design ofmarcasite piece would have better workmanship
that era? Those small differences could answer yourwhere each marcasite would be set with tiny prongs
questions and drastically influence the value of aor beads versus glued in ones and because of this
piece. The tube hinge was generally used until thethe stones will stay in place longer. This is also true
1890s where the safety catch clasp became popularfor Rhinestones in Vintage Costume Jewelry where
in the Art Deco 1920s period. Over the years theprong set ones are valued higher than glued in ones.
appearance of the safety catch clasp has changed soThese are just some of the many tips to knowing
it's good to recognize the old from the new. Manyyour Jewelry. It's so helpful to learn what to look for
clasps on old jewelry such as pins broke in time sowhen buying Antique and Vintage Jewelry which also
replacement ones were soldered onto the back. Allcan be as much fun as wearing and collecting it!
better Jewelry is soldered at some place but if theKnowledge is definitely Jewelry Golden!