| While in WWII my father sent home a necklace. On | | | | a bead of mother of pearl (pearl shell) placed into the |
| the box it says "Handmade black pearl necklace, | | | | oyster by pearl farmers. Seeing the object as an |
| purchased while he was in Italy." It is black with | | | | irritation, the oyster covers the object with layer and |
| orange beads between pearls shapes. It looks more | | | | layer of a material called nacre. This is essentially the |
| like mother of pearl to me, but the black color | | | | same material making the shiny and lustrous lining of |
| throws me off. The pearls could be genuine, but to | | | | the shell. |
| be sure you really need to get a professional | | | | Pearl nacre is made of aragonite, a type of calcium |
| evaluation either by an estate jewelry appraiser or | | | | carbonate. A sort of "pearl glue" holds together |
| gemologist. | | | | microscopic plates of aragonite. As long as the oyster |
| Another way to tell if they are genuine is to rub a | | | | is healthy, the nacre forms and becomes thick over |
| pearl against your teeth. If it is smooth, it is not | | | | the core, developing the luster and shine we |
| genuine. Pearls will always have a roughness that you | | | | recognize as a pearl. |
| can't detect visually. The orange beads could be coral. | | | | Why all of that information? There is one reason: |
| If they are genuine black pearls, their value would | | | | aragonite or calcium carbonate. This is the substance |
| depend on size, quality and color. Something only | | | | of the pearl, the nacre. This material is soft |
| someone with a "hands-on" examination could | | | | compared to earth formed gemstones. This material |
| determine. | | | | is easily damaged by acids, certain chemicals and |
| I'm going to sell an antique strand of pearls and a | | | | abrasive substances. The general cleaning methods |
| potential buyer asked to know how the pearls were | | | | used for mineral gemstones cannot be safely used to |
| "signed". Generally in old items and even some new, | | | | clean the tarnished metal and pearls at the same |
| signed simply means some means of identification of | | | | time. Where a simple gold item may be placed into a |
| the maker or designer. On antique glassware for | | | | mild acid to remove tarnish and buffed to restore |
| example, a signature mark may be pressed or cut | | | | shine, that same mild acid will etch the pearl and can |
| into the glass. Some antique costume jewelry is | | | | actually dissolve it. |
| "signed" with a makers mark and that does increase | | | | "What to avoid when cleaning pearl jewelry?" As |
| the value if the maker is among the popular ones at | | | | important as how to clean the jewelry is knowing |
| the time. | | | | what "NOT" to use as a cleanser. Commercial jewelry |
| For pearls, a "sign" is difficult. The only place for a | | | | cleaning liquids are too strong for pearls. Most of |
| signature or makers mark is generally on the clasp | | | | these cleaners contain ammonia and ammonia can |
| area. This will be either on the clasp or the "tongue" | | | | damage the pearl, reducing the luster. Jewelry |
| that goes into the larger clasp body. Clasps can be | | | | cleaners are pretty much ineffective in removing |
| changed when pearls are restrung and a signed clasp | | | | tarnish and are designed to free up and remove dirt |
| can always be suspect as to the real "maker" of the | | | | and grime more than remove tarnish. |
| pearls. If these are genuine or cultured pearls, the | | | | Avoid any cleanser with ammonia, chlorine or |
| value is likely more in the pearls than in the | | | | abrasives added. Avoid jewelry or silver polishing |
| "signature". | | | | cloths with a red rouge layer. The rouge is a polishing |
| If these are costume pearls, the value is partially in | | | | compound but the red material(iron oxide) can easily |
| the signature and then in the condition of the strand. | | | | get lodged in unseen recesses of a pearl and make |
| The condition of the pearls is more imprtant than the | | | | the pearl unsightly. |
| condition of the cord used for stringing.Stringing can | | | | "What to use to clean pearls and remove tarnish |
| be and should be done regularly for pearls worn | | | | from metal?" Oh my, now we get into basic elbow |
| often. | | | | grease! At home cleaning in the safest form is done |
| I have not seen pearls "signed" very often and as I | | | | by taking a wet paste of baking soda and gently |
| said, that can be suspect as to accuracy. Look for | | | | rubbing the metal. If the tarnish is not severe, the |
| some mark on the clasp parts to see if any names | | | | mild abrasive nature of the damp soda will remove it. |
| or "trademarks" are stamped there. That will be the | | | | Rub with your fingers on the metal only, using a soft |
| only signature you will have. | | | | brush or implement such as a wet toothpick or |
| Could be the potential buyer is looking for a particular | | | | cotton ear swab for hard to reach areas. To restore |
| make of costume pearl or then again might be asking | | | | shine to the metal, follow-up with a fine quality |
| and not really knowing what the buyer is asking for! | | | | jewelry polishing cloth metal. |
| The best thing is for the buyer to look at the pearls | | | | I recommend one of the chemically treated cloths |
| and to offer you a price. If not happy with the price, | | | | such as "Sunshine Cloth" from a jewelry parts and |
| just refuse it. Some buyers are in the business to | | | | tools supplier. Other similar cloths are available at |
| resell the items and only offer prices way below | | | | jewelry stores. Frankly, many jewelry store |
| market values. | | | | employees don't know much about the cleaning |
| It is possible to take the strand to a qualified jeweler | | | | supplies that sell. So be sure not to get the kind with |
| for an appraisal. If the pearls are costume, the | | | | a red rouge layer, even if recommended. Craft |
| jeweler should be able to tell right away and advise | | | | stores and jewelry stores often use RioGrande as a |
| against a full appraisal. If they are real pearls, the | | | | source and should be able to get a "Sunshine Cloth" |
| jeweler can appraise the strand based on the pearls, | | | | for you. Like other similar cloths, light action quickly |
| not on the antique value. That is at least a starting | | | | removes tarnish. With light tarnish, you may use the |
| place. | | | | cloth alone and skip the baking soda. These cloths |
| I cannot see your pearl brooch but assume the | | | | are used "as is" and are simply discarded when used |
| pearls radiate in some floral pattern, perhaps on | | | | up. |
| individual "stems" or as part of "flowers." If this is the | | | | To follow-up this cleaning with a quick rinse in a mild |
| case, you have some space between the pearls | | | | dish detergent is a good idea. This will remove any |
| which will make cleaning easier. If the pearls are | | | | residue. Simply take a mild solution of dish detergent |
| closely grouped covering much of the gold, cleaning | | | | like Joy (remember, no ammonia!),rub gently with the |
| will be more tedious and difficult. | | | | fingers, rinse in warm water and pat dry. That is it. |
| I will get into specific cleaning in a moment: First, | | | | "Security of the pearls." While cleaning the brooch, |
| consider care and cleaning of pearls in general. In a | | | | gently grasp each pearl and see if it turns on the |
| nutshell, cleaning the brooch yourself will come down | | | | mounting stem or within the setting. If on a stem of |
| to baking soda, a good jewelry polishing cloth and a | | | | metal, the pearl should be removed and re-cemented |
| mild detergent. You may opt for a jeweler to do the | | | | with a clear two part epoxy cement. This is likely a |
| cleaning. I will get into the specifics later. | | | | job for the jeweler to do. If loose in a claw or prong |
| "Pearls." Composition of a pearl and why care must | | | | type setting, a jeweler can quickly and gently tighten |
| be exercised in cleaning and wear. Pearls form | | | | the settings. |
| naturally in both fresh and saltwater mollusks. The | | | | "Cleaning by a jewelry." You may decide to let a |
| most well-known pearls are saltwater pearls formed | | | | jeweler clean the brooch and secure any loose pearls. |
| inside various forms of pearl oysters. While "oriental" | | | | If pearls are removed and re-cemented, while the |
| or totally natural pearls were the gems in ages past, | | | | pearls are removed the brooch may be machine |
| pearl farming has led to a supply of cultured pearls | | | | polished to an almost like new condition with no fear |
| which would be impossible from free ranging oysters | | | | of damage to the pearls. If cleaned with the pearls |
| and the efforts of pearl divers. | | | | intact, the jeweler will use fine rotary brushes to buff |
| Only chance will bring a free swimming oyster to | | | | away the tarnish. Then, all is cleaned in a mild |
| produce a pearl and only fortunate environment will | | | | detergent solution generally using an ultrasonic |
| lead to a natural pearl being well-formed, smooth | | | | cleaner. |
| surfaced and beautiful. In pearl farms, many | | | | Before you do any of the things that I have just |
| conditions are controlled to help insure a good crop | | | | suggeted to you, you should go see a jewelry and |
| but today pollution in the waters are damaging the | | | | ask him some of the questions that I have just |
| growth and supply of fine cultured pearls. | | | | mentioned. That way you get all of your base |
| The pearl forms around some type of foreign object | | | | covered and you will not tarnish the pearls. |
| inside the oyster shell. In cultured pearls, the object is | | | | |