| Twentieth-century jewelry styles show a fascinating | | | | ribbons and bows. |
| evolution. We know these styles as Art Nouveau, | | | | Edwardian or Garland style jewelry can include these |
| Edwardian (or Garland), Art Deco, and Retro. Each | | | | features: |
| was popular during a specific period and each has its | | | | - Pearls and diamonds |
| unique style. | | | | - Delicate platinum mountings |
| During the first decades of the twentieth century, | | | | - Colored gemstones including ruby, sapphire, emerald, |
| the jewelry industry experienced a rebirth. This was | | | | opal, and cat'-eye chrysoberyl |
| due, in part, to the discovery of new supplies of | | | | - Motifs like garlands, ribbons, bows, crescents, |
| gems and development of new manufacturing and | | | | starbursts, Greek keys, laurel wreaths, wings, |
| gem-cutting techniques. | | | | feathers, crowns, oak leaves, swallows, and |
| Social roles changed too, Jewelry prices were within | | | | butterflies. |
| reach of the ordinary citizen. The changing role in | | | | Art Deco Jewelry |
| women in society and the rise of the middle class put | | | | The Art Deco style emerged after World War I and |
| new demands on the jewelry industry. In response, | | | | dominated the decorative arts and jewelry from |
| the industry experienced a revolution in jewelry style | | | | 1920 through the 1930s. It was a strong reaction |
| and design. | | | | against the ethereal sensuality of Art Nouveau and |
| The first half of the twentieth century saw several | | | | the delicate elegance of the Garland style. Art Deco |
| distinct jewelry styles. Some were associated with | | | | jewelry suggests post-war practicality through its |
| are movements, others were a reaction to wartime | | | | strong geometric patterns in bold contrasting colors. |
| shortages. All leave a brilliant legacy in the treasures | | | | Art Deco features include: |
| that connoisseurs prize today. | | | | - Bold, contrasting colors |
| Art Nouveau Jewelry | | | | - Strong, geometric patterns |
| Introduced in the 1890s, the flowing style of Art | | | | - Sleek, streamlined look, emphasizing the vertical line |
| Nouveau was a departure from the historic revival | | | | - Gemstones including diamonds, black onyx, lapis |
| styles that had dominated nineteenth -century | | | | lazuli, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, jade, turquoise, and |
| decorative arts. Art Nouveau, French for "new art," | | | | topaz |
| was inspired by the vitality of the natural world and a | | | | - Carved or cabochon-cut colored gemstones |
| new appreciation for Japanese art | | | | - Primary colors in rich combinations and strong |
| Jewels in Art Nouveau style combine realistic | | | | contrast |
| interpretations of plants and animals with creatures | | | | Retro Jewelry |
| of fantasy and myth. Raised to the level of fine art | | | | The outbreak of World War II in 1939 ended the Art |
| by such designers as Rene Lalique, this sinuous and | | | | Deco period. Gems were in short supply during the |
| sensual style disappeared completely with the onset | | | | early 1940s, and platinum was reserved for military |
| of World War I in 1914. | | | | use. The jewelry produced during and immediately |
| Art Nouveau jewelry often includes one or more of | | | | after the war used materials, such as gold and |
| these features: | | | | diamonds, that were still available during the lean |
| - Curving lines | | | | years. Jewelry from the period is known as Retro. |
| - Realistic portrayals of nature including butterflies, | | | | The Retro style rounded Art Deco's sharp angles and |
| birds, and intertwining foliage | | | | muted its bold colors. It features sculpted curves |
| - Fantastic creatures such as dragons and other | | | | sparingly set with small diamonds and rubies. Jewelry |
| mythical beasts | | | | of the late 1940s reflects post-war prosperity in a |
| - Gems such as pearls, opal, moonstone, aquamarine, | | | | more opulent use of colored stones and increased |
| tourmaline, rose quartz, chalcedony, chrysoprase, and | | | | femininity of design motifs. |
| amethyst | | | | Common themes and styles in Retro jewelry include: |
| - Use of glass, either molded or as enamel | | | | - Floral and bow motifs in colored gems |
| - Designs of women transformed into mermaids, | | | | - Animal figures of enameled gold and gems |
| winged sprites, or flowers | | | | - Jeweled brooches, lapel clips |
| Edwardian Jewelry | | | | - Bold, sculpted curves of rose gold set with small |
| Between 1900 and 1915, during the reign of England's | | | | diamonds and rubies |
| King Edward VII, the upper class of Europe and the | | | | - Designs inspired by mechanical objects such as |
| US wore jewelry as a way to demonstrate their | | | | bicycle chains, padlocks, and tank treads |
| wealth. They favored lavish jewelry inspired by the | | | | - Stylized natural motifs |
| eighteenth-century French court. Their jewels were | | | | - Large motifs fabricated using thin gold sheets of |
| made of the finest, rarest, and most costly gems | | | | conserve metal while giving a substantial look |
| and precious metals. This jewelry style is known as | | | | - Gemstones like small diamonds, rubies (often |
| Edwardian, but it's sometimes called Garland because | | | | synthetic), and light-colored sapphires. |
| it typically featured garlands of flowers tied with | | | | |