| Maintaining and repairing vintage clothing is not as | | | | used when you need your thread to be invisible from |
| hard as it seems! All you need to know are a few | | | | one side, for whatever reason like sewing in linings, |
| basic stitches, and have a few everyday supplies at | | | | sewing hems or sewing garment sections together. |
| the ready. There are of course, more advanced | | | | Basically, two or three threads of the material are |
| techniques and processes, but it's important to know | | | | caught up by the needle each time, and this makes |
| the basics first, before moving forward. So if you | | | | the stitches almost totally invisible from the one side. |
| have a well loved vintage piece of clothing with a split | | | | The thread is hidden inside of a fold, and the needle |
| side seam, dropped hem or loose sleeve seam don't | | | | tunnels between the layers of the folded edge |
| give it up. Here's how to sew and repair clothing, for | | | | (that's the "slip" part). It can be a little tricky to keep |
| the everday vintage lover. | | | | this stitch flat, but it is essential if you want them to |
| There are a few essential tools you'll need such as | | | | stay hidden. Tunnel the needle 1mm or so below the |
| small cuticle scissors, preferably with a curved tip, and | | | | fold of the folded fabric. Keep the thread snug, but |
| sharp fabric scissors which will make clean cuts and | | | | not too tight to pull the fabric and cause ripples. |
| help to keep certain fabrics from fraying on the ends. | | | | Here's how to do it: |
| You'll find it helps to have needles of various sizes | | | | 1. Stick your needle up from behind the fold. |
| and and a range of thread colors to match the | | | | 2. Make a 1/4-inch-long stitch through the opposite |
| stitches in your garment. Repairs will blend in better if | | | | side and re-emerge. |
| they are done with matching color thread. Some | | | | 3. Tunnel the needle about 1/4 inch through the fold |
| things you'll also find helpful are push pins and straight | | | | for the next stitch, and pull up the thread. |
| pins to help hold fabric in place while you sew and a | | | | This will be invisible on one side, to take care to |
| thimble. Try using waxed floss when you have to | | | | practice first, so you you can see how to get the |
| sew a very tough seam that keeps splitting, or when | | | | invisible part on the side that you want! |
| you're sewing thick fabric like jeans. Waxed floss is | | | | The Running Stitch - This is the most basic stitch. It |
| amazing! It will never split or loosen. You will be able | | | | is used for seams, and gathering and pulling fabric to |
| to see the stitches quite a bit, so this only works for | | | | create ripples. |
| areas that aren't visible, or if you like the look of | | | | How to sew with a Running Stitch: |
| very noticeable stitches. | | | | 1. After tying a knot on the end of your string, poke |
| There are three basic stitches that you should know: | | | | into the fabric (up, or down, it does not matter). |
| The Back Stitch - Once you get the hang of it, the | | | | 2. Then just keep passing the needle over and under |
| back stitch is great on many different fabrics, for | | | | with a few fabric threads in between. |
| making strong stitches that lay flat, and wont tug. It | | | | 3. Try to keep the stitches as even and neat as |
| is the strongest hand stitch, that imitates a machine | | | | possible. |
| stitch. | | | | Many tutorials can be found on the web, but this |
| How to sew with a back stitch: Righties will work | | | | should get you started. I suggest searching the |
| from right to left, and Lefties work from left to right. | | | | names of these stitches for videos and detailed |
| 1. Poke the needle down into the fabric, pulling as far | | | | diagrams, if you're having some trouble. I have |
| as you can, until the knot is lying against the fabric. | | | | included two very helpful websites at the bottom of |
| 2. Poke up into the fabric, with your desired stitch | | | | this page. After you learn the basics, you will soon |
| size... about ¼ inch from the knot. Pull until taut, | | | | get a "feel" for your preferences, and what works |
| making sure not to ripple the fabric. | | | | best for you, and your garment. Sewing in general |
| 3. Poke downwards again, *into* the knot. Pull until | | | | can seem daunting at first, but it is a lot like |
| taut. You will have one visible stitch, at this point. | | | | swimming in that sometimes you just have to jump |
| 4. Now poke up again through the fabric, again about | | | | in, and you'll see how easy it really is! |
| ¼ inch from the last place you poked upwards | | | | Fun tip: Besides these stitches, I have found that it's |
| from. | | | | also fun to look up some of the stitches usually used |
| 5. Repeat! Tie off when finished. | | | | for embroidery. Many of these stitches are very |
| The Invisible Slip Stitch or Blind Hem Stitch - At a | | | | easy can also work for making decorative hems and |
| glance, this stitch may seem complicated, but it's | | | | outlines on collars, pockets, and much more. |
| actually pretty easy. It's important to buckle down | | | | Embroidery can also be used to cover up stains and |
| and learn this stitch, because it is one of the most | | | | snags in fabric! |
| valuable stitches for everyday sewing. This stitch is | | | | Happy stitching! |