| The history of jewelry - Throughout time - man (and | | | | to simulate many of the other rare and valuable |
| woman) has sought to make themselves stand out | | | | gemstones of the day. In honor of Mr. Strass - this |
| from the crowd. Even animals will preen and parade | | | | method and resulting replicas were often called |
| around in a mating ritual. It is a natural occurrence for | | | | "Strass" or "Strass Glass". This was surely a milestone |
| both man and beast. | | | | in the history of our present day treasures. |
| Early man decorated himself with whatever available - | | | | My favorite contributor to the evolvement of our |
| sometimes seashells on a string, fish bones or even | | | | modern day costume jewelry was/is Daniel |
| animal claws. The documented examples of "jewelry" | | | | Swarovski. Mister Swarovski was born in Austria and |
| can be dated back to around 20,000 BC. Man used | | | | into the "business". He followed his father in this trade |
| whatever might make him stand out. We are not | | | | but he was not content with the slow tedious |
| much different - only our available ornaments are | | | | process of producing these stones. After almost a |
| much better and more diverse. | | | | decade of research and trial and error - Daniel |
| Jewelry has had many roles throughout the years - | | | | managed to produce a machine that could cut this |
| during the various periods it has always been used to | | | | crystal (leaded glass) with more accuracy and |
| establish a certain stature in society. It has also been | | | | precision than local craftsman could ever hope to |
| used as religious offerings, decorations for the church | | | | achieve. A wonderful side benefit was that not only |
| and clergy, certain stones have been deemed able to | | | | could these stones be cut more precisely but also |
| ward off disease and ill fortune. Jewelry has played | | | | could be produced far faster. |
| many roles throughout mankind's existence. Quite | | | | Instead of days or even weeks to create the best |
| honestly, it still does. What young executive on the | | | | possible stone - it could be reduced into a matter of |
| rise does not want to sport a Rolex or other show | | | | minutes or less! Daniel Swarovski had made a major |
| of success? Yes, jewelry still plays a major part in | | | | accomplishment but yet he was not satisfied. He was |
| our society and will continue to do so. | | | | still dependent on suppliers for quality crystal for his |
| The history of "costume" jewelry - History of many | | | | process so - he began to experiment and finally |
| sources credit Coco Chanel (born in 1883 as Gabrielle | | | | developed his own recipe for fine crystal glass that |
| Bonheur Chanel) as being the first to introduce | | | | had a very high lead content. This particular recipe |
| costume jewelry as an acceptable accessory. In 1910 | | | | seemed to give the perfect facet and refraction |
| she opened a hat shop (in France) and in 1913 she | | | | combination. |
| began designing and making dresses. In 1919, she | | | | What else could one man possibly do to revolutionize |
| opened a fashion house where a lady might go and | | | | his industry? What else was left? Well, there was |
| be decked out from head to foot with clothing and | | | | one thing that bogged the process down quite a bit. |
| all accessories - including "real" and beautiful costume | | | | The stones were produced at what was considered |
| jewelry! This wonderful lady also developed and | | | | lightening speed but - quite frequently these new |
| released her ever popular Chanel No. 5 Perfume in | | | | stones had to have a foil backing applied. Here comes |
| @1923. When World War II was imminent - she | | | | the bottleneck. What does it matter if you can |
| retired (@1939) but came out of retirement in 1954 | | | | produce a thousand stones a day but can only apply |
| to once again dominant the fashion world. She left us | | | | backing to fifty? So, here comes Daniel Swarovski to |
| a wonderful legacy when she passed in 1971. | | | | the forefront once more. |
| Many years ago the Ziegfield Follies was an | | | | He developed a means and method to vacuum plate |
| extraordinary show. Acts and ladies attired in | | | | the back of his stones with foil by machine thereby |
| costumes glittering in rhinestones parading around | | | | eliminating another costly and time consuming step in |
| (much like what you would expect to see now at a | | | | the production of his superior stones. Daniel could |
| Los Vegas Show). The use of these highly decorated | | | | now produce many stones all in one process! Seldom |
| costumes and accessories did wonders for the | | | | has any one person done so much for his chosen |
| acceptance of glittery jewelry. As the demand for | | | | field and I do have a great admiration for his abilities |
| new and better costumes grew - it helped several | | | | and ingenuity. |
| jewelry companies flourish and grow. My research | | | | Swarovski stones are widely used here in the US and |
| tells me that Hobe was a major contributor and | | | | dominate the market. You may also hear them |
| supplier for the Follies. It was a good choice - Hobe | | | | referred to as Austrian Crystals. His legacy still lives |
| designed and manufactured some outstanding piePrior | | | | on and the company is alive and flourishing. In 1985, |
| to this development - costume jewelry was mostly | | | | they began producing their own creations and |
| known as fake or imitation jewelry. The people | | | | marketing them. Currently, their designer marking is a |
| designing and selling were not considered true | | | | swan and I suspect they will become highly |
| craftsmen. The Follies helped the industry gain a | | | | collectable. We have the good fortune to have |
| certain amount of acceptance. | | | | several pieces and they are a delight. |
| Probably the biggest major development was | | | | In @1953 - the process for creating the ever popular |
| Hollywood. As more and more stars began wearing | | | | aurora borealis rhinestones was perfected. They are |
| these extravagant pieces in their films - the average | | | | often abbreviated and called simply AB stones. This |
| person developed a desire for them. The | | | | name is credited for the stones resemblance to the |
| developments in manufacturing costume jewelry had | | | | awesome Northern Lights displays. I cannot disagree |
| made it much cheaper and affordable for the | | | | with the analogy - simply amazing! This stone has had |
| average person now. You could go to the movies | | | | a very thin metal coating applied to the surface and |
| and see your favorite star and leave the movie | | | | this has an outstanding effect. Almost holographic, |
| house and head to the department store and | | | | the stone changes color as the light changes or |
| purchase a similar piece. You too could look just like | | | | movement occurs. History credits this development |
| Elizabeth Taylor! Well, almost look like Elizabeth Taylor. | | | | to guess which company? Swarovski of course, with |
| Back during these time periods - the average person | | | | assistance duly noted from Christian Dior. These |
| was not well traveled. Many never traveled over a | | | | stones are widely used for some awesome results. |
| hundred miles from where they were born but - we | | | | In 1954 - the copyright law for/applying to costume |
| had Hollywood and the movies to show us what was | | | | jewelry designs was passed. This was a major event |
| stylish. We could see what the beautiful people were | | | | in that it gave not only certain rights to the jewelry |
| wearing and we wanted to be beautiful people too! | | | | companies but also lent a certain validation to their |
| Costume jewelry was developed many years ago. | | | | products and efforts. No longer was costume jewelry |
| Originally, it was still hand made - often times still set | | | | an also ran but a thriving industry with all the rights |
| in gold. The only difference would be the stones or | | | | and recognition of any industry. Costume jewelry has |
| jewels. As far back in time as 3500 BC - craftsmen | | | | officially arrived! |
| discovered that gold could be heated, hammered and | | | | The birth of your vintage jewelry - What had to |
| shaped quite easily. Silver, copper and bronze metals | | | | happen for this lovely piece of art you now have in |
| were also used during this era. | | | | your possession to arrive? Here is one example - of |
| In the era of kingdoms and holding court - a certain | | | | course it might vary according to the article, style |
| standard of opulence was expected. Gems were | | | | and time frame. Many years ago a designer came up |
| very expensive! Labor was not a concern. If it took | | | | with the idea. He painstakingly drew it out and then |
| weeks to fashion a stone by hand - then so be it. | | | | decided what stones and color he thought best. |
| Jewelers could be commissioned to produce these | | | | After many hours of checking and comparing - he |
| pieces for a fraction of the cost of real gems. | | | | would finish his final drawing. Then the drawing and |
| Traveling with very valuable jewelry was not a good | | | | specifications would go to the craftsmen that would |
| idea. The distance between kingdoms was often long | | | | seek to make it happen. They would spend hours on |
| and treacherous. | | | | end crafting this original mold or model. Then, after |
| The story of Robin Hood comes to mind. I don't | | | | they and the designer was satisfied - the mold was |
| think there was a lot of giving to the poor going on | | | | poured with a base metal. Then the molded piece |
| but I do believe a rich, gold and jewelry laden coach | | | | was removed and trimmed of any excess metal and |
| and entourage might find themselves suddenly | | | | hand polished and buffed to a shiny creation. |
| surrounded by robbers and stripped of their valuables. | | | | Once this step was satisfactorily completed - then |
| Hence, the courtiers still needed the flashy | | | | the piece was ready for it's plating or finish. Usually, a |
| accessories demanded by their station but who could | | | | good copper plating was applied for a sealant and |
| afford to replenish such expensive treasures? | | | | bonding agent. Next, nickel plating was done for that |
| Poor kingdoms that could not afford actual gems still | | | | smooth, shiny surface. Finally, after all this - we must |
| had to project a certain image - an industry was | | | | begin the electroplating process where the final |
| born! This jewelry was still well made, still beautiful | | | | coating of gold, silver or rhodium was delivered. |
| and often times was much more labor intensive | | | | Electroplating is the process of putting a metallic |
| because of fashioning and working the raw materials | | | | coating on a metal or other conducting surface by |
| into a shiny replica of the original. | | | | using an electric current. It is intended to improve the |
| As discussed earlier - true gems were expensive and | | | | appearance of materials and for protection against |
| hard to acquire. An alternative was needed. How to | | | | corrosion. The item to be plated is thoroughly cleaned |
| imitate the luster and brilliance of fine diamonds and | | | | by dipping it in acid and alkaline cleaning solutions. |
| gems? Finally, a process was developed where glass | | | | Then put in a solution of the metal with which you |
| was ground down into a powder. It could then be | | | | desire to coat or plate the item. The metal in solution |
| colored to simulate other gems or left uncolored to | | | | exists in the form of positive ions which are atoms |
| for the diamond effect. It was then placed in a mold | | | | that have lost one or more electrons. The item is |
| and the kiln fired. The hardened "paste" could then be | | | | then connected to the cathode or negative end of a |
| cut and shaped and polished into an acceptable | | | | source of the electric current. The anode or positive |
| replica. | | | | electric terminal or end is then connected to another |
| Countless hours were spent on these new gems but | | | | conductor which is also placed in the solution. |
| labor was cheap and many a cottage industry | | | | The current flowing through acts on the metallic ions |
| supplemented their meager incomes by producing | | | | in the solution. The ions are attracted to the cathode |
| these simulated treasures. | | | | side, and the coating is deposited on the item's |
| This method or "paste" was perfected by George | | | | metallic surface. Of course, after each process the |
| Strass (1701 -1773). Mr. Strass developed a glittering | | | | item must be cleaned and polished. At last, the piece |
| paste made from ground lead glass, potassium and | | | | is sent to the stone setter where he would hand set |
| other additives that could be used to replicate | | | | the stones. Of course, this would vary in difficulty |
| different transparent stones. This mixture brought a | | | | depending on whether the stones were prong set, |
| certain brilliance and capability to refract the available | | | | glued, dogtooth set, bezel set or even caged. Often, |
| light not seen before in simulated gems! He also | | | | a piece might have several types of settings. Quite a |
| developed formulas (by adding metal oxides and | | | | trip for what quite often is still called fake jewelry! |
| certain salts) to produce the different colors needed | | | | |