| When buying vintage jewelry, the best and most | | | | second scrape will contain a good sample of the |
| surefire way to ensure the piece is truly the metal | | | | underlying metal. The drop will turn a color which can |
| quality you are expecting, is of course to view a | | | | be compared to a chart indicating the purity. |
| hallmark of the metal purity, such as 14K or Sterling | | | | Alternatively one can file the jewelry surface with a |
| Silver somewhere on the item. If there's no stamped | | | | steel file and drop the acid directly on the piece, |
| hallmark, the next best guarantee of metal purity is | | | | which is actually a good test in itself as it will be easy |
| to have the piece tested by a professional jeweler. | | | | to file fine gold or silver, whereas the file will slide off |
| When buying an expensive piece of jewelry one of | | | | an item made from steel. |
| these methods should be utilized for absolute | | | | Gold acid test kits come with a solution for each level |
| verification of authenticity. | | | | of gold quality, 10K, 14K, 18K, etc. and will give a |
| Some collectors recommend only buying stamped | | | | reading when the applicable solution is applied. I usually |
| jewelry. They consider unmarked pieces to be plated | | | | start with 14K and if necessary work my way up or |
| or filled by virtue of the fact they are not marked. | | | | down depending on the results. Silver test kits come |
| While this may be true of newer gold and silver | | | | with just one type of solution and it turns a different |
| jewelry, there are many antique and vintage pieces | | | | shade or red, brown, or green to denote the silver |
| that were not hallmarked and truly are made from | | | | purity. |
| precious metal. Charm collectors know this in | | | | Acid testing is not a fool-proof method, as there can |
| particular, as there are plenty of examples of | | | | be factors that give a false reading, and typically the |
| unmarked sterling silver vintage charms that are in | | | | results are subjective regarding the metal purity level. |
| high demand and draw premium prices. | | | | But if the test is done properly there is a reasonable |
| For those of us who buy collectible fine vintage | | | | chance that the outcome is reliable. If you're testing |
| jewelry that's not intended to be heirloom or | | | | jewelry, or buying from someone who is testing it, |
| investment quality, there are other methods that are | | | | here are a few things to double check of the |
| often used to establish the value of an item. Gold, | | | | process. First make sure the testing solution is fresh. |
| silver, and platinum metals are not magnetic, and this | | | | These solutions are made from nitric acid and can go |
| is a simple test that can help to verify the metal | | | | stale after several months. Second, the jewelry item |
| quality, although the magnet test should not be relied | | | | must be scratched hard enough on the stone that |
| upon by itself. If the jewelry item has magnetic | | | | any plating is removed from the surface and the |
| qualities it's likely made from nickel or steel. Also, an | | | | base metal is exposed. These steps help to ensure a |
| indication of metal purity is its hardness or malleability. | | | | relatively accurate test. |
| Precious metals are soft and if the item is large and | | | | As a collector gains experience handling precious |
| thin it should be pliable. | | | | metals, it becomes easier to gauge quality by |
| Another way of determining metal purity is acid | | | | touching and viewing them. Silver in particular acquires |
| testing. Acid tests for gold, silver, or platinum are | | | | a soft sheen, or patina, after many years of use. A |
| available for sale on the internet and in jewelry supply | | | | trained eye and good judgment becomes key when |
| stores. These are sold in kits that contain several | | | | buying or selling fine jewelry. Nothing can take the |
| bottles of acid and a stone used to scrape a bit of | | | | place of dealing with reputable sources and |
| the surface from an item of jewelry. Acid testing is | | | | developing your own expertise. The fun of collecting |
| done correctly by scraping an inconspicuous area of | | | | is in the hunt, and researching and testing your |
| the jewelry piece on the stone and then placing a | | | | purchases is part of the experience. Armed with a |
| drop of the acid on the metal residue left there. I | | | | little bit of knowledge you can make wise choices |
| prefer to scrape the item once on the stone and | | | | and join the fun of vintage jewelry collecting. |
| then wash it off and repeat a second time. The | | | | |